Monday, August 9, 2010

Oahu and Big Island, Hawaii


Two years ago, when my youngest son was 3 years old, he asked me if we could go to Hawaii. I found this request odd and comical at the same time. How did a 3 year old hear about Hawaii? Did one of his preschool classmates or a teacher vacation there and talk about it during school?!? His answer "My big brain told me." My husband had been to Hawaii twice before, and I have never been. The idea had merit. I also believed that I couldn't be a true travel agent without experiencing my own "fam" (familiarization) trip to Hawaii. We noodled on it for a while, and thought 2010 would work well for the Thomas family to head West to the Pacific. We also decided to make it worth our while, we would visit two islands: Oahu and Big Island.

OAHU:

Despite all the travel magazines and reviews I read, and conversations I had about Honolulu being a strip of skyscraper hotels and its commericalism, it did little to prepare me for reality. Yes, Honolulo IS a strip of high-rise hotels and a strip of posh stores and restaurants, and there are probably more ABC stores than Massachusetts has Dunkin Donuts. But just across the street (or sometimes, out the door) of these high-rise hotels is this glorious beach. A very crowded beach. But the water is blue, and it is warm. It is full of activity--surfers, body surfers, boogey-boarders, swimmers, people on floaties. It is THE happening place of Waikiki, Honolulu.

But there is more to Oahu than just Waikiki Beach.




Luau

Our first excursion from Waikiki Beach, Honolulu was to a Luau. We boarded a tour bus to the Paradise Cove Luau, about 45 minutes from Honolulu. We were greated with leis and drinks (non-alcoholic for the kids). We had our perfunctionary "welcome" picture taken with a Luau girl and guy, and then headed in for the festivities. There was something for everyone!


Flower-lei bracelets, Polynesian bowling and spear throwing (wear kids "win" shell necklaces), outrigger canoe rowing, coconut-opening demonstrations, tree climbing demonstrations (along with showering the guests with flowers), hula demonstrations. It was fabulous!









Then came dinner and the show. The dinner consisted of "typical" Luau fare--Kalua pork (YUM!), fried chicken, macadamia fish, rice, salad, and dessert. All of it was very good. And then the show....a fabulous look at the Polyneisian culture and their dances. Very entertaining!









Polynisian Cultural Center


The next day, our family traveled north to visit the Polynesian Culture Center. Here's an important tip--the PCC is closed on Sundays--the day we originally scheduled to visit. Good thing we found out and were able to change our itinerary around. The bus ride takes about 1.5 hours from Waikiki Beach. To truly experience the PCC, it is best to spend a full day there.


Visiting the Polynesian Cultural Center is a fantastic way to learn about the various Polynesian cultures--Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, Samoa, Fiji, and Aotearoa. The PCC is divided into 6 villages, where you can learn about the history and culture of the native people. It is a very interactive experience. You see the huts and canoes built by natives, as well as traditional ceremonies. In Fiji, we visited a "town meeting" where we were given bamboo drum shakers to participate in traditional Fiji songs. While in Tahiti, all "guests" were invited to learn the traditional Tahitian dance--the ladies got to shake their booty and the men displayed their "chicken" dance abilities. Great fun! We also found some "hands-on" activities to participate it. I made a "fishing pole with a fish" out of a palm branch. My sons tried fishing as well as opening a coconut and sampling some cocount juice. In Samoa, my husband and three sons attempted to start a fire with traditional Samoan tools (sticks!), but with little success. During the day, there is also a Parade of Cultures on the river running through the PCC, where you can see each countries people in traditional dress and native dances.


















Our ticket package at the PCC included seeing the production of HA--The Breath of Life, a story of a young man and his journey through childhood to manhood in the Polynesian culture. There were 6 phases of his life, each performed by one of the six cultures at the PCC. Althought there was (what seemed like) a long time between when the exhibits closed and when the show began (also known as "Shopping Opporuntity at the PCC), it was well worth the wait. The colors, the dance, the emotion, the story was all very well done. Even my 5 year old understood what was going on. A brilliant show!



Pearl Harbor


A visit to Pearl Harbor is a "must see" while in Honolulu. It is the location of the "day that will live in infamy," Japan's surprise attack on Americans, which forced us to enter World War II.


I can't even begin to tell you what an emotional visit this was. Whether it is the video presentation at the Visitor Center, of hearing the words of General MacArthur while taking a tour on the USS Missouri, or the solemnity of the USS Arizona Memorial, you will be faced with some stirring, deep emotions and pride for our country and countrymen.


The Visitor Center, though large, is undergoing a remodeling where they are building a new theater. At the time of our visit, the video presentation of the bombing of Pearl Harbor was inside a tent. Visiting the USS Arizona Memorial is free, on a first-come, first-served basis. You must get tickets with an assigned boat time from the ticket window. If you are not with a tour group, it is a good idea to arrive early, as many tour groups get a majority of the tickets, and it could be a while to wait for your scheduled ferry time. For example, we were with a tour group, which arrived at Pearl Harbor at 9am. We were scheduled for the 11:45am shuttle. This gave us ample of time to go visit the USS Missouri, which is now permanently docked at Pearl Harbor. Tickets for the USS Missouri, USS Bowfin are available at the Visitor Center.



Other Activities

You could easily spend a whole two weeks on Oahu with all there is to do. Other activities include taking a tour of the Dole Plantation, visiting the large surfing waves and beaches of the North Shore, hiking to Diamond Head, snorkeling, people watching, and just chillaxin'.....



I have to say my favorite part of Oahu is the friendliness of all the people. Yes, tourism is the biggest industry in Oahu, so they rely on visitors from the mainland. But I feel that their hospitality and happiness was very genuine. Overall, Oahu is a fantastic place to visit. There is history, culture, and plenty of Aloha-spirit for everyone.



BIG ISLAND:

On our 5th day, we took a 30 minute flight (on a "real" size plane) over to the Big Island. We landed in Kailua-Kona, on the west side of the island, where most of the resorts are located. We rented a car, which you really should to do anything on the Big Island.

When we drove off the airport road onto the Queen Ka'Ahumanu Highway (Rt 19).....WOW! What a difference!! Gone were the high-rise hotels and the "city" feel. I was looking at the exact opposite---stretches of barren lava-rock fields. It was undeveloped, and to some extent barren. Miles and miles of lava rock on both sides of the road.

There are only about 10 resorts/hotels on the West Side of the Big Island north of Kona. They include the Four Seasons, The Fairmont Orchid, Kona Village Resort, Marriot Waikoloa, Mauna Lai Resort, Mauna Kea Resort, Hapuna Prince, and the Hilton Waikoloa Village (where we stayed).

Although many reviews of the Hilton Waikoloa Village had me all jittery prior to our arrival, it ended up being a perfect destination (considering our options) for a family with 3 young children. Let me start by saying that NOTHING IS INCLUDED--except maybe the free beach towels for use during your stay. But on the other hand, the rooms were large (we reserved 2 connecting rooms--1 with a King Bed, 1 with 2 double beds). The property is immense--it covers 66 acres. There are 3 room towers--the Ocean Tower, the Palace Tower, and the Lagoon Tower. To get around the property, you can either walk, take a tram, or a boat to your destination. Of course, kids will LOVE the fact there is a tram or a boat.

The grounds are a tropical paradise. There are tropical fish in the waterway that carries the boats. There is also a secluded lagoon, with sand, where you can snorkel, swim, rent canoes, paddle boats, or paddle bikes. Our family snorkeled quite a bit in the lagoon. We swam with turtles ("Honu"), angel fish, eels, and other schools of fish. While crossing the bridge one day, we even saw an eagle ray (relative to the manta ray). If you are feeling adventurous, you can even snorkel outside of the secluded lagoon onto the Pacific's lagoon.

There are 2 pools. The Kohala Pool is by the Ocean Tower. It has 3 slides--2 small ones and a "medium" sized waterslide. The Kona Pool, located by the Lagoon Tower, is large and immense (depth only 3.5 feet), and has a waterfall as well as a large waterslide. There is also a kiddie-section with a maximum depth of 3 feet and a sandy bottom.

There are also several restaurants on site---Japanese, Chinese, Steak, Oceanfront, Breakfast Buffet, and Grab-n-Go---but they are all very expensive. On several occasions we went to the Island Gourmet Store (an ABC store in fancy clothing) at the Queen's Marketplace and bought muffins, cereal, fruit, sandwiches, milk to eat in our room. On our last day we discovered a Costco in Kailua-Kona---oh! if only we had found it sooner---we could have had $1.50 hot dogs or pizza or turkey wraps for MUCH MUCH less!

Things to do on the big island:
As mentioned above, it would be smart to rent a car on the Big Island. There are some great things to see, but hey are about 2 - 2 1/2 hours away.

Mount Kilauea:


Our first full day, we drove to Mount Kiluea. The volcano is a 2-2.5 hour ride from the Waikoloa Village area. En route, you will drive through Kona, Kailua, and Keauhou, and Kealia. Kona has a small-city feel. It has a Walmart, Sports Authority, Barnes & Noble. You will drive by coffee plantations, as well as a Macadamia Nut orchard. There are few places to eat once you pass Kailua.


Before going to the National Park to view the volcano, go a little farther to the town of Volcano. There are several restaurants there. We *highly* recommend the Lava Rock Cafe. The prices are very reasonable for Hawaiian standards, and the menu boasts several "local" favorites. TRY THE LOCO MOCO!! It was love at first bite. The fresh, local hamburger patty, with the white sticky rice, covered in brown gravy and egg.....YUMMO! And the waitress has the best singing voice---had us fooled for a little while--we didn't know if it was "live" or the radio.


At the Mount Kilauea Volcano Visitor Center, the rangers hand out maps and information sheets for the best viewing and other tips. Our family stopped by the steaming vents, where we also were able to see the steaming crater from a distance. We took a walk on Devestation Trail. But the highlight was walking through a lava tube.




Per the rangers suggestion, we drove down Route 130--to the end--for what is considered prime volcano viewing. Just one week before us, a big rush of lava flowed from Mt Kileaua down towards the ocean. It took part of the road and destroyed a house in its path. One thing that a lot of visitors didn't understand is that there is no guarantee to see lava flowing. Best chance is at night where you *might* see a glow. But it generally flows underground. The only way to truly see the flow of lava is by boat or helicopter, where you can see it enter the ocean. However, we did see 2 bushes spark into flames while we were there. The other amazing part about this viewing area was the amount of houses set up on a bed of volcanic lava rock!! I talked with the Civil Defense Engineers on sight to answer questions, and they explained that these folks are "off the grid"--they use captured rain water and use solar energy or wind for electricity. Absolutely amazing!






After spending several hours learning about Mount Kiluea, we decided to drive North to Hilo for dinner, and then back west towards Waikoloa Village. After having a faboulous Loco Moco lunch experience, I directed my husband to Cafe 100--the self-proclaimed Home of the Loco Moco. Sadly, it was not as good as the Lava Rock Cafe. The food served was a step above fast-food. A better description, it was home-made fast-food.


My adventurous husband decided to take Saddle Road back to our hotel. Saddle Road is between Mauna Lea and Manua Kea, the Hawaiin islands largest mountains--both over 13,000 feet above sea level. And the road just keeps climbing up and up. We discovered that our GPS has an elevation counter, so we turned it on. We reached an elevation of nearly 7000 feet. We were driving above the clouds. It was amazing!!! We could see the telescopes on top of Mauna Lea.



Beaches:


How can a trip to Hawaii be complete without experiencing the beaches?


I hemmed-and-hawed about staying at the Hilton with their 2 pools and lagoon. I felt that my family would rather sit poolside than go explore the beaches. Boy, was I wrong!!


We drove 10 minutes north to HAPUNA BEACH. Hapuna is routinely named as one of America's Best Beaches. There is beautiful soft white and black sand, great waves for body-surfing or boogy-boarding, as well as the occassional turtle to swim by you. There is plenty of parking, picnic tables, showers and bathrooms.







We then proceeded to explore Puako Bay. It is great for tidal pooling. There are black and white lava stones all over the beach area. There is also a picnic area and bathrooms here.




Both my of my guide books recommended Honoka'ope Bay for snorkeling. Since all of my boys enjoyed snorkeling at our resort, I thought we would check it out. It is located on the Mauna Lani Resort. Follow directions for parking. To get to the water, there is a 10 minute walk, where on the trail you will see some amazing lava fields and are even able to peak into a couple of lava tubes. There is a also a traditional lagoon where fish were once farmed. Please be sure to stay on the trail, and not wander onto the Mauna Lani Resort. Once we reached the water--wow--what a beautiful, shallow lagoon. I can see why it rates highly for snorklers!! But unfortunately, I would say it is best for experienced swimmers and snorkelers--the water would have been a little rough for my 9 year olds.






Hawi, Hilo, and Waterfalls:


On our last full day on the Big Island, we headed north to the little town of Hawi. We stopped to have lunch at the wonderful Bamboo Restaurant. At this place, we rediscovered the Aloha-spirit, which seemed to be missing from the Big Island. Each person was extremely friendly and helpful. The owner kept coming to our table and commenting on our boys, and giving us tips on what to order. She took our family picture, without being asked to. And not only was the service fantastic, but the food was extra-ordinary!! My husband ordered the fish quesadilla and I had the nut-crusted Mahi Mahi. YUM!! Cooked to perfection. And don't miss out on the libations. The Bamboo Restaurant specializes on Lilikoi (passion fruit) cocktails. MMMMM....And luckily, you can take a bottle of Lilikoi drink mix home with you!


From Hawi, we drove Route 19 to the Eastern side of the Island to explore around Hilo some more. Actually, our goal for the afternoon was to find some waterfalls. We headed to Akaka Falls State Park. The drive along Route 19 was pretty amazing--seeing a real rainforest and the large, lush vegetation. There were also some great views of the Pacific.


We arrived at Akaka Falls State Park very easily--the road was well marked. The parking lot was full. There is a little trail there that loops you around to the waterfall. My guess is that the purpose of the trail is two-fold. First, it diverts everyone from crowding the waterfall at the same time. It also allows you to walk within the lush rainforest and see up-close some of the beautiful plants and trees. Unfortunately, this is not one of the waterfalls you can get close too. There is a fence at the "viewing area" and that is as close as you can get. But it is beautiful.



We then decided to find Rainbow Falls, which was recommended in my guide book. The GPS starts taking us right through downtown Hilo. A waterfall in the middle of a city? YES. However, Rainbow falls is located in a small park, and we didn't feel very safe there. It was a "hang out" for a rough looking crowd. The waterfall is much smaller and not as impressive. I'm really not sure why this was listed in the guide book at all.


Our 10-day Hawaiian trip was fantastic! We have so many wonderful memories. I look forward to returning and exploring some more. Aloha!